Four days covering both Delhis — the Mughal monuments and sensory chaos of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi) and the colonial boulevards, gardens, and museums of Lutyens' New Delhi.
The 17th-century Mughal palace-fortress on the banks of the Yamuna is Old Delhi's anchor. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) and the gardens are the highlights. Entry 600 INR foreigners. Arrive at opening to beat the heat.
India's largest mosque, built by Shah Jahan, overlooking the rooftops of Old Delhi. Climb the south minaret (100 INR, closed Fridays) for the panoramic view over the old city. Dress modestly and remove shoes.
The architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal — built 80 years earlier and just as geometrically perfect. The surrounding Mughal gardens are immaculate. Far less visited than it deserves. 600 INR foreigners.
The tallest minaret in India (73m) and a UNESCO World Heritage site, started in 1193. The Iron Pillar in the courtyard has stood for 1,600 years without rusting. The site is enormous — 90 minutes to do it properly. 600 INR foreigners.
The war memorial at the center of Lutyens' Delhi, surrounded by the widest boulevard in the city. Best visited in early morning when the lawns are full of locals. The National Museum nearby has the best collection of Indus Valley artefacts.
A neighborhood where the government commissioned international and Indian street artists to transform utility boxes and walls into public art. Good café scene around Lodhi Colony.
The best restaurant in Delhi and consistently one of Asia's finest — modern Indian cuisine with extraordinary technique. The degustation menu is mandatory. Reserve 2–3 weeks ahead.
A medieval reservoir complex converted into Delhi's most artsy neighborhood — rooftop bars, independent boutiques, and galleries in a crumbling 14th-century madrasa. Go in the afternoon and stay for sunset drinks over the lake.
The Sufi shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin holds free qawwali devotional music every Thursday evening from around 7 PM. It's one of Delhi's most powerful experiences — music, incense, and hundreds of devotees. Go respectfully.
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