Three days covering Milan's essentials — the Duomo rooftop, Leonardo's Last Supper, the Navigli canal district for aperitivo, and the Brera pinacoteca for Renaissance art.
Book the rooftop access in advance online (7–14€ depending on the route). The forest of Gothic spires from above, with the Alps visible on clear days, is one of the great city views in Europe.
Milan's canal district fills with locals for aperitivo from 6–9 PM every evening. Order a Campari Spritz or Negroni (6–9€) and the bar fills the counter with free food — arancini, bruschetta, pasta. Bar Rattanà and El Brellin are classics.
Book tickets months in advance — this is not optional. Visits are 15 minutes in a humidity-controlled room. The scale and detail in person are extraordinary; reproductions don't prepare you.
Milan's finest art gallery — Mantegna's foreshortened Christ, Raphael's Betrothal of the Virgin, and Caravaggio's Supper at Emmaus. Usually not crowded. 15€ entry.
The streets around the Pinacoteca are Milan's most beautiful — cobblestoned, boutique-lined, and full of excellent restaurants. Ristorante Bice has been here since 1926; Latteria San Marco is smaller and more local.
The 15th-century Sforza castle houses Michelangelo's last unfinished sculpture — the Rondanini Pietà. The castle grounds (free) and the interior museums (5€) are both worth your time.
A Milan institution since 1888 — fried dough pockets filled with tomato and mozzarella, eaten standing on the street. There's always a line. Worth it. 3€ each.
The area around the canals has Milan's best vintage clothing and record shops. The Naviglio Grande on a Sunday hosts an antiques market with 400+ vendors.
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