Neighborhoods, architecture, and the Chicago the tourists miss
The Chicago Architecture Foundation river cruise is the best single introduction to the city. Book the 90-minute version. Afterward, Millennium Park and the Bean before dinner in the South Loop.
90-minute docent-led boat tour of 50+ buildings. The best architecture tour in the country by most accounts. Early morning and evening tours sell out first — book ahead.
The CTA L connects all four neighborhoods on this itinerary. A Ventra card saves time at every transfer. Daily and 3-day passes are available and cheaper than individual rides.
The Art Institute, Field Museum, and Shedd Aquarium are all walkable. Budget a full day. The Art Institute Grant Park collection rivals any museum in the country.
Seurat's Sunday Afternoon, Hopper's Nighthawks, and the largest collection of Impressionist art outside of Paris. Give it 3 hours minimum. The Modern Wing is free on Thursday evenings.
Three neighborhoods that define the real Chicago. Pilsen is the murals and Mexican food. Wicker Park is the vintage shops and dive bars. Logan Square is the food scene.
Birrieria Zaragoza in Pilsen for goat birria — cash only, authentic, one of the best tacos in the city. Duseks in Pilsen for craft beer and elevated bar food if you want sit-down service.
18th Street from Western to Halsted is lined with massive murals covering full building facades. Free, self-guided. Ends at the National Museum of Mexican Art, which is also free.
Kingston Mines and BLUES on Halsted are the two anchor blues clubs in Lincoln Park. Both open until 4am. The Sunday jam sessions start around 9pm and feature rotating musicians.
Kingston Mines has two stages alternating sets so the music never stops. Cover is around $15. BLUES has a smaller room and feels more intimate. Both are walking distance from each other.
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